Making The Most Of The West Country, Despite The Weather

With the Brexit referendum coming up and lots of unrest in France we decided to go to the west country again and, hopefully, get a bit further than Dartmouth as in the previous year. The cruise plan was to get to Fowey and see all the places like the Yealm and Salcombe that we'd missed out on the previous year. Unfortunately right from the start the weather was uncooperative; we'd had a week of complex lows with lots of occluded fronts that had turned a trip planned for a week earlier to Fecamp into a 12 hour windward slog back to Chichester from Brighton. It was a weather pattern that was to prove very resistant to change.

Lymington

The tides were not ideal, the west going stream only kicked in after midday on the first day and
naturally became later during the week.  The plan, therefore, was to go to Lymington on the first day, then on to Portland, Brixham and Plymouth. The forecast was ok to go, westerly force five, but not likely to deliver much sailing even though it was only 20 miles from our home port of Gosport. We tried putting the sails up  but with the evening coming closer we ended up using some engine power to get us there in reasonable time. Lymington Yacht Haven had recently been improved and proved to be a good choice as we didn't have time to go into the town; we were impressed with the new bar and showers.

Portland

It's just over 40 miles from Lymington to Portland so by leaving at midday to get to Hurst as the tide turns meant that we were due to arrive at about 7pm assuming the tide did it's bit to help us. Another strong westerly was forecast so we'd be motoring again through some potentially challenging waters.

In the event only the area around the Bridge (off the Needles) was rough and where we experienced 25 knots, not ideal! Once out into Poole Bay things got a little better especially when the wind changed direction putting us on a (very) close reach instead of bashing directly into it.

 As the tide increased in strength we were flying along with a speed over the ground of up to ten knots; this and the bright sunshine made it much easier to tolerate the rather rough sea. On listening to the Range Control Boat it seemed that restrictions were only inshore, a quick call confirmed that as long as we stayed three miles offshore we'd be fine. This saved a considerable detour and with a veer we were able to stay on the wind all the way to Portland arriving at the marina at a very respectable 6pm. Plenty of time to sort out the boat, have a drink, a good meal and be ready for the trip across the bay the following day. As it happened this was not to be, there was a lot of fog about that didn't clear so we had a lay day to top up stores and attend to some annoying leaks.

Brixham

It was now Thursday and the tide didn't turn at the Bill until 13:30 but careful examination of the tidal charts indicated that we should be able to sneak through the inside passage after 12:30 so we left at 11am.  This time we took the East rather than the North entrance which, we found out, is quite ok provided you take care and ask Portland Harbour Radio for permission when it's busy. All went to plan and to our surprise about 12 yachts of varying types left just after us and followed us round, quite a fleet! Yet again we had a strong westerly, right on the nose this time so it was quite a slog across the bay in relatively poor visibility, motor sailing all the way.

With little to see trips easily become boring and with poor weather, hard work, as this one did. We kept

station with several other yachts as we crossed the bay, all motoring; bit of a procession really. However, eventually the South Hams appeared, Torbay became clear and we gradually made our way in to Brixham where we tied up at 8pm. The boredom was sharply interrupted when we dropped sails, with the engine oil pressure alarm intermittently sounding! It turned out that with the unprecedented amount of motoring we'd burned more oil than ever before and that the pressure was sensitive to oil level; checks would be made every trip from now on, not just from time to time!

We'd planned to have a lay day which was just as well as there was a strong wind warning in force the next day but it was sunny, ideal for lunch at the yacht club and a walk up to Berry Head in the afternoon.

Plymouth

The forecast for Saturday was Westerly, force 4 or 5, occasionally 6; not ideal but we wanted to meet some friends in Plymouth and still hoped to be able to stop off at Salcombe, if not Newton Ferriers. The plan was to reach down to Start Point, getting there as the tide turned, bash past Prawle Point and Bolt head then reach across Bigbury Bay to Plymouth. Naturally that's not how it turned out; we had to motor down to Start Point to catch the tide, motor sail directly into the wind for a while, then follow the wind as it veered to the north west all the way to Plymouth. The wind picked up to 25 knots as it veered making the leg across Bigbury Bay particularly uncomfortable and tiring. We arrived just after 8pm, too late to join our friends Tim & Sue for dinner and not feeling like it anyway; 9 hours of slog had taken its toll...

After a splendid breakfast chatting with friends all this discomfort had been forgotten. Tim had sailed his Contessa from Fowey and planned to go back that afternoon; down wind had been fine, upwind would take longer and an early start advised! The weather still refused to cooperate even though it was Forces Day with lots going on at the Hoe; the forces certainly were there in force, shame about the crowds. A few stalwarts braved the drizzle, wind and cold to see the displays and demonstrations many of which were interesting such as the bomb disposal team. After a quick look around we left to return to the boat and then on to an excellent meal at the Glasshouse, where we'd had breakfast.

Dartmouth

Monday brought a window of marginally better weather and more accommodating tides, a morning
sail was on the cards, to Dartmouth. The next two days were forecast to be very wet and windy so if we were to be stuck, we'd like to be stuck in a place we enjoyed. With over 40 miles to go and soft winds, we didn't have time to sail so on went the banger, yet again. There's a world of difference motoring downwind in light airs, it was a relatively pleasant experience to rapidly tick off all the landmarks we'd seen two days earlier as we struggled slowly past them. It's a lovely stretch of coast to cover and we enjoyed watching the Yealm, Burgh Island, Salcombe and the NCI outpost at Prawle Point slip past, such a shame we couldn't see more of these lovely places.

The sea flattened off as we rounded Start Point and the wind lost the little power it had; all very
peaceful for a change with Slapton sands as the backdrop. The entrance to Dartmouth is always memorable, it seemed to be like coming home with all the familiar houses reaching up the hillside, the castle, and the Royal Dart YC in turn coming into view. Our first priority was to replenish the fuel tanks then moor up on the visitors pontoon at Darthaven Marina which was not particularly busy, not many folk were out on the water with such variable weather.

That evening was the start of two pleasant lay days which were enjoyable despite some very wet

patches; it's a relaxing place to stay, much better than Paignton which we won't bother to visit again even by train.

Portland (Again)

Thursday brought clearer weather but some brisk winds, south westerly force 5-6, so we headed off at about 9am. We didn't fancy setting off at 5am so that we might be able to take the inshore passage. Instead we'd plug the tide for a while, go 2 miles offshore when it was flooding to miss the worst of the race and (hopefully) be in time to get set north towards Grove Point. Naturally once clear of the coastline the wind was right on the stern some had to motor sail in a series of gybes to cross the bay. This time the visibility was better so we did see some of the features as well as several tankers and a fishing boat that were intent on using the same bit of sea as we wanted to; with so little traffic about it's amazing how we ended up having to take avoiding action three times!

The race was a bit rough but we missed most of it and were able to take a short cut heading north over the Shambles which was surprisingly calm. Once in the lee of the island life became much more pleasant, we could have turned the engine off for a few minutes but it had been a long day and the attractions of the bar beckoned so we made best speed for a rather splendid berth we'd managed to secure over the radio. Not the most pleasurable of experiences but we were back in reasonably good time and without incident.

Strong wind warnings greeted us the next day and would continue for another day so the plan to get straight back to Lymington was abandoned.  Another couple of lay days were substituted, fortunately it was sunny much of the time (with a few showers to keep us on our toes) so this was not too onerous. We had one day on Chesil Beach including an exceptional lunch at the Crab Shack Cafe then one in Weymouth going around the fascinating Nothe Fort with lunch at the Royal Dorset


Poole

Sunday brought a break from the force 7-8 winds, they'd dropped to a very fickle and variable force 3; no sailing but at least a bright day to motor close inshore as the range would not be active. By setting off just after lunch and cheating the tide inshore we hoped to be at St Aldenhams head just as the tide was turning then let it assist us to get round Anvil point and the old Harry rocks into Poole. For a change, that's exactly what happened.

We approached the coast just before Durdle Door and had fine views of the Jurassic coast, close up, all the way until we had to head out to avoid the ledges at Kimmeridge.  As we'd timed it just right there was hardly any race to contend with and soon past the NCI lookout where we were greeted by a bazar of gullets,  to use the correct collective noun. They were delightful company for several miles,
such attractive and agile birds!

The tide soon whisked us past the Old Harry Rocks and into Poole bay, motorboat land, the home of the Birmingham navy which was out in force on this sunny Sunday evening.  It may have been tempting to go straight on to the Solent on such a favourable tide but that would have meant a late arrival and we wanted to enjoy some evenings on the boat. We chose to stay in Salterns Marina which would be a trip down memory lane as it was where we started out yachting on a little Sadler 25; it lived up to expectations and was just how we'd remembered it all those years ago in the mid 80's.





Lymington and Home

On the 15th day of our holiday finally the weather gods relented and gave us some reasonable (force 3-4) winds from a direction (North West) that would at last allow us to sail without the engine. Again, the tides were only east going either early in the morning or later in the afternoon so after lunch we set off with the intention (once more) of cheating the tide across the bay  in order to arrive at Hurst as the tide was turning. Although it was a falling tide we managed to sneak out of the north channel and headed inshore to Bournemouth. It was such a pleasure to turn the engine off once the sails were hoisted, even more enjoyable than usual as we'd hardly had the engine off for the previous two weeks. It was one reach all the way apart from a short period close to Hurst when we had to go goose winged, a good speed too, five knots most of the time (over the ground!)

This day, Monday was the hight of spring tides and low water occurred just as we entered the river at 5:30pm. We waited for a ferry until it became clear that it was waiting for another to come out, then went into the channel on the right hand side. I'd always thought that there was plenty of water in the river as long as you didn't stray outside the channel and the chart in the almanac seemed to back that up showing 3.4 metres about chart datum in most places. I should have looked at the proper chart, there were some very low spots preventing me from keeping to one side out of the way of the ferry; fortunately the ferry went very slowly so it was not difficult to stay ahead. Moral of the story, check your depths at low water Springs!

After an enjoyable evening at Lymington Yacht Haven, a good nights sleep and a splendid breakfast

of Eggs Benedict we set off to catch the last of the east going tide back to Gosport. Once more the winds were kind, even if a bit fickle, and with only 20 miles to go on a fair tide we could afford to sail gracefully along a three knots through the water but nearly twice that over the ground. We managed to be well clear of Cowes Roads before the tide lost its easterly force and turned slack, so with a steadily increasing breeze we were able to sail all the way past Gilkicker until we had to drop sails and enter the busy harbour of Portsmouth and our home berth at Gosport marina.

It had been enjoyable living on Lively Levante and we felt we'd finally got her into good cruising shape; everything worked with little on the to do list. We may have had to suffer 65 hours of motoring (a record) but we did make it to Plymouth and to some extent that's the price you pay for squeezing in a West Country cruise into two weeks. June and so far, into July, had been warmer and wetter than ever before; It's difficult not to connect this with global warming and accept that stronger winds are associated with this increase in activity. After two years of strong winds maybe this is going to be the new norm for the future and we'll just have to accept it planning appropriately.